Portugal, Spain | outsider, tourist, or traveler

From sightseeing to soulseeing: a different perspective

Mar 30, 2025

Traveling within Europe is always a fascinating endeavor. I’ve been fortunate to visit Europe somewhat regularly for nearly 20 years now, and it is remarkable how all is well-preserved and orderly. I could even describe some places as immaculate.

Everything just works here. People trust one another.

It is a stark contrast with the places where I spent most of my life. NYC, for example, is very dirty and smelly. Full of crazy people too. Rio has chaotic traffic (ok, not that chaotic: have you been to Lima?), and is full of street-smart people, always trying to have a leg up on you.

Been tricked? You may call the cops, but it is hit or miss—you never know how helpful they may be, or if at all.

Wouldn’t Quite Call Myself a Regular

Over the last couple of decades, I have been able to visit Europe quite a few times, yet not as often as I’d like.

Some places, such as Portugal, I’ve been 3 or 4 times. Others, like Spain—and more specifically, Madrid—I am visiting for only the second time after many years. It has been so long that my memories get a bit blurred.

This trip will also take me to countries in Europe I’ve never visited before.

What type of visitor am I?

This transition from familiar places to new ones makes me reflect on my ethos as I perambulate around. Perhaps not intuitively, I find myself at a bit of a crossroads.

Who am I in Europe, especially in Western and Southern Europe?

An outsider? A traveler? A tourist?

Outsider, Tourist, or Traveler?

First of all, what is the difference between them? Shouldn’t they all be the same? One could argue as such, but I think it is important to draw a few lines here.

Here is how I see it:

An outsider is someone who is perhaps just transiting through a different place or is there for a business reason. The place doesn’t matter for them. They just happened to be there for some activity that brought them there, but if the activity was happening elsewhere, they wouldn’t mind. They possibly don’t try to learn anything about the place, and they may have no good reason whatsoever to do so.
A tourist is someone who is there seeking to see all the monuments, all the museums, and all the main sights. They don’t care much about where they eat, often choosing the nearest option to their attraction—ahem, Olive Garden at Times Square. Tourists are often mindless and follow a sort of itinerary, often trying to hit all the boxes, and attempting to squeeze it all in their limited days in their trip. They hop in the Tuk Tuk, even if they are not in India. They hang around all the spots where everyone is trying to sell them all kinds of goods, services, or experiences.
A traveler, on the other hand, blends in with the locals. They may occasionally hit up that one attraction everyone is there to see, but if they don’t, it is ok. It just becomes an excuse to come back. A traveler also fancies going to the local spots, trendy or traditional. They go on a run at the local park and go to the local event. They savor the trip, they enjoy the little things during their day—the cute café they stumbled upon after turning a corner, the local mom-and-pop shop with unique crafts, or the amazing restaurant that has been there for over 50 years, but no one talks about because it didn’t get mentioned on some magazine.

Choosing My Style

When possible, I prefer to be a traveler. Of course, being a traveler is not for every trip or every destination. Also, there is nothing wrong with being a tourist or outsider either.

Touring is, in itself, a very personal journey, and you should do it however it best suits you.

There are times I’m an outsider. Going to Charlotte, NC? Definitely an outsider. My last trip to Morocco? For sure a tourist, and it was incredible—I would not have done it any differently.

But what about Lisbon and Madrid? That’s a tougher question.

Three Versions of Lisbon

I’ve been to Lisbon in three very distinct times. When I was 12, 21, and now 29.

Each trip was a bit different, and now I didn’t feel like I had to do all the “starting package” sights.

I felt that I already knew the city, and our shared history and language made me feel right at home.

Jeronimos Monastery? The line was way too big for my taste and I did not want to wait in the rain. I’ll go next time if it floats my boat.
St George’s Castle? Absolutely not in this weather.
Sintra? Gorgeous, but I’ve already been there twice. My trips to Lisbon can’t all be the same!

So what did I do over the 7 days I was there?

Well, I’ve already mentioned my days in nearby Cascais. I also happen to have another cousin living there, Lucas, and we met at a local bar to catch up. Before I met him, I went to a café that was part-café, part-office for a local company, and part-paddle shop (yes, paddle).

The following days were spent walking around the Bairro Alto, Chiado, and Alfama neighborhoods.

I very much enjoyed the serendipitous moments I lived there, from looking left and seeing this really interesting “mall” in a gorgeous 1800s building—selling anything from food to clothes to art—to meeting my middle and high school friend, João (one of the 8 or so “Joãos” in my classroom, but the one “from” Portugal).

Then, the next day, I went all the way to Benfica, the neighborhood where he lives, to meet him one more time. I ended up playing pick-up basketball with him and some immigrants from Angola and Cape Verde.

Those little moments made me wonder what it would be like to live in Lisbon, savoring every moment and going about your day assuming there will be a next one.

Alfama—really bad for running, but great for getting lost in it

Madrid: A Similar Experience

Similarly, in Madrid, though I only had two full days, which I used to the fullest (walked about 14 miles or 23 km each day), I also took the time to do the activities people living in the city would do as well.

Buying new running shoes after my old pair ripped (I’m walking a lot, after all)
Joining Andrew, a friend who is studying in Madrid, for happy hour
Catching a Real Madrid basketball match

I felt that I managed to escape—at least a little—from the tourist madness and see a different Madrid than the one around Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor.

Campo del Moro—an off the beaten path park in Madrid

Don’t Visit Lisbon and Madrid

I left Madrid with a very similar perception of Lisbon.

They are both cities you shouldn’t visit, check all the boxes, and then get out.

Instead, you should immerse yourself in them. Get lost. Savor each moment—not as if it were your last, but with the confidence that another day will bring new surprises.

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